Our Brittany Ferries experience with a dog: Portsmouth to Saint-Malo on the Saint-Malo

We wanted a France trip that felt genuinely doable with a dog — calm, comfortable, and not a logistical marathon. So we sailed Brittany Ferries from Portsmouth to Saint-Malo on the ship called Saint-Malo, going overnight on the way there and daytime on the way back.

We booked a Commodore room for both crossings. For a long sailing, it felt like paying for a hotel room… except the “hotel” was taking us to France. And it meant Mahlow had plenty of space to settle.

At a glance

  • We’d book the Commodore room again for a long crossing — comfort, space, and proper rest.
  • Overnight crossing = real sleep. We slept brilliantly and Mahlow settled immediately.
  • Day crossing back dragged a bit, so bring entertainment and treat it like a slow travel day.
  • Big lesson: if dogs are limited to one lift, wait out the rush before heading to your cabin.
  • Boarding win: we moved Mahlow to the boot before boarding because car-deck door space was tight.
  • Saint-Malo tip: plan a calm “decompression walk” route for your first hour off the ship.

Booking

If you want to copy our trip, these are the links you can use:

Affiliate disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you book via our links, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Why we chose the Commodore room (and why it felt worth it)

We booked a Commodore room both ways and it completely changed the experience. Because the crossing is long, having a comfortable base made it feel less like “transport” and more like the holiday starting early.

It also made things easier with Mahlow. We had proper space to settle in, reset, and keep him relaxed without having to navigate busy public areas for hours.

The overnight crossing: sleep, space, and breakfast in the lounge

The overnight sailing was the highlight. I slept really well, and Mahlow was immediately at home — he relaxed straight away like it was any other room.

On the way there, breakfast was served in the lounge. We left Mahlow resting in the room and went for breakfast, which felt like a big “this is actually enjoyable” moment.

The daytime crossing back: comfy, but it did drag

On the way back to the UK, we were still glad we’d booked the Commodore room. We did wonder about exploring the ship, but we preferred staying with Mahlow and keeping him company.

That meant we were comfortable the whole time, and Mahlow just snoozed on the bed while we watched things and pottered about.

What helped us pass the time

  • Downloaded shows/podcasts (signal isn’t always reliable at sea)
  • A book or Kindle
  • Snacks and a refillable water bottle
  • A couple of calming chews for your dog (if they’re used to them)

What to pack for the ferry with a dog

Our best move was having one small “grab bag” that stayed with us at all times. It makes boarding calmer and stops you rummaging through the car when you’re already juggling leads, tickets, and queues.

Dog grab bag essentials (keep with you)

  • Collapsible bowl + water
  • Poo bags, baby wipes, kitchen roll
  • Pee pads (useful “just in case”, especially overnight)
  • Familiar blanket/bed (something that smells like home)
  • Long-lasting chew or lick mat (quiet enrichment)
  • Spare lead + harness
  • Towel (salty sea air + ferry floors can mean a damp dog)
  • Any meds your dog needs (plus a copy of the prescription)

Car deck / boarding extras (handy to have accessible)

  • High-value treats for “focus on me” moments
  • A slip lead as backup
  • A light blanket to pop over a crate (if your dog finds it soothing)

Our biggest frustration: dogs limited to one elevator

This was the only part that felt properly stressful.

Dogs were only allowed to use one of the elevators. On the overnight crossing, loads of passengers without dogs used the same lift because it was closest to their car — and it created a busy bottleneck just when most dogs (and owners) were trying to get settled.

The crew were trying to help by guiding people to other lifts. But the vibe from some passengers was “we’ll just wait, we don’t mind”, which sounds patient… yet it meant dogs were stuck in a crowded queue for longer than needed.

Mahlow was in a muzzle at this point (purely for safety and peace of mind in a tight crowd), and it definitely made the whole moment more intense than it needed to be.

What we’ll do next time

  • Wait for the rush to pass before heading up to the cabin.
  • Keep things calm and boring: short lead, gentle voice, slow movements.
  • Have treats ready so you can reward check-ins and steady behaviour.

A small boarding win: moving Mahlow to the boot

Right before we boarded, we moved Mahlow to the boot. He usually travels in the back seats, but the car deck was fairly tight and there wasn’t much space to open doors.

We were really glad we made that call. It made boarding smoother and avoided awkward juggling in a cramped space.

Saint-Malo decompression walks: easy first strolls after the ferry

After a crossing, we always aim for one thing first: a calm, sniffy decompression walk. Not miles. Just a gentle reset so everyone arrives in holiday mode.

1) Ramparts and waterfront loop (great early or late)

The Saint-Malo ramparts are iconic, and doing a relaxed loop gives you sea air and views without committing to a big hike. If it’s busy, stick to quieter stretches and keep your dog close — it can get crowded quickly.

2) The Sillon promenade (easy “stretch your legs” option)

If your dog does best with simple, open walking, the Sillon seafront promenade is a lovely way to shake off travel stiffness. Keep it steady, let your dog sniff, and don’t worry about “seeing everything” on day one.

3) Parc de la Briantais (green space reset with big views)

If your dog needs grass and space more than scenery, Parc de la Briantais is a great first stop. It’s ideal for a calmer wander before you tackle the busy streets of Intra-Muros.

4) Rance-side stroll near Saint-Servan and Tour Solidor

This is a nice option if you want a quieter feel than the old town. It’s a good “first hour” walk: steady pace, interesting smells, and less hustle.

Quick beach rule reminder

Beach rules in Saint-Malo are seasonal. If you’re visiting between 1 May and 30 September, it’s especially important to check signage and local rules before heading onto the sand with your dog.

Pet travel paperwork (don’t skip this bit)

Requirements can change, so we won’t pretend this is a forever-checklist. Start with official guidance and work from there well ahead of your travel date.

  • Microchip and rabies vaccination status
  • Animal Health Certificate (if required for your trip)
  • Tapeworm treatment timing for returning to Great Britain (where applicable)

FAQ

Was the Commodore room worth it with a dog?

For us, yes — especially because the crossing is long. It felt like paying for a hotel room, except the “hotel” was taking us to France. The extra space helped Mahlow settle quickly and gave us a comfortable base on the daytime crossing back.

Did you leave your dog alone in the room?

On our overnight sailing, we felt comfortable leaving Mahlow in the room briefly while we went for breakfast in the lounge. Always check the current rules for your sailing, and do what’s right for your dog’s temperament.

What was the most stressful part?

The lift situation. With dogs restricted to one elevator, the initial rush created a busy queue that raised stress levels for a lot of dogs (and owners).

Any top tip for boarding with a dog?

Have a plan for tight car-deck spacing. Moving Mahlow to the boot just before boarding meant we weren’t struggling with doors and awkward angles when space was limited.

Can dogs go on Saint-Malo beaches?

It depends on the season and local rules. Always check beach signage and local guidance before you go, especially in peak season.

Final thoughts

Our Portsmouth to Saint-Malo trip on Brittany Ferries felt genuinely dog-friendly in the ways that mattered most: space to settle, a comfortable cabin, and a proper night’s sleep on the overnight crossing. Even the daytime crossing back was easy once we accepted it was a “slow travel day” and stayed cosy in the room with Mahlow.

Next time, we’ll simply avoid the lift rush — and we’d book the Commodore room again without hesitation.

Once you’ve arrived in France, the adventure doesn’t stop at the port. Discover some of the wonderful dog-friendly walks we explored in Brittany here.